Off the streets

From left: The DuSable Museum of African American History, baseball mural outside the Negro League Cafe, the new Harold Washington Cultural Center

During its heyday in the early to mid-1900s, bustling Bronzeville boasted an African-American cultural scene that rivaled Harlem's hip world.

Jazz, blues and literary giants called the neighborhood home. Venues like the Regal Theatre hosted superstars like Duke Ellington, Louis Armstrong, Billie Holiday and Redd Foxx, to name a few. Jelly Roll Morton and Benny Goodman played at local clubs, and author Richard Wright lived in the area, which lies just north of Hyde Park. Bronzeville's proud residents dubbed the neighborhood "The Black Metropolis."

But the population started to wane after WWII, and the neighborhood slowly degenerated into an area riddled with abandoned buildings, check-cashing dens and seedy liquor stores. Today, Bronzeville still hasn't quite recovered from years of neglect and blight. Many abandoned properties have been boarded up so long that even the wood covering the windows is rotting away.

But a closer look reveals proof that Bronzeville is slowly rebounding: The area boasts a bed-and-breakfast, an Afrocentric bookstore, art galleries and several upscale restaurants and cafes.

Chapeau-sporting Ald. Dorothy Tillman (3rd) was a major factor in the area's rebirth, when she helped launch the nonprofit Tobacco Road Inc. in 1992. The area was branded "The Chicago Blues District" and development hasn't stopped since.

Here are a few must-see spots and some of the more recent cultural additions that have helped bring Bronzeville back to life:

Harold Washington Cultural Center, 4701 S King Dr (773-373-1900).
This brand-new multi-million dollar facility features a gallery, museum and a 1,000-seat theater that plays host to a range of top acts. The April schedule includes the "Lift Our Voice in Song" gospel showcase, spoken-word performances hosted by Def Poetry Jam's Red Storm and Triple Blak, and the "Rhymes, Rhythm, and Blues" event starring hip-hop artist Talib Kweli (see Music). The center also caters to the next generation with its Music, Business and the Performing Arts Institute, where budding young talents can learn about the entertainment industry. The center is open to the public by appointment, or through scheduled tours Tuesdays and Thursdays from noon to 3pm.

Afrocentric Bookstore, 4655 S King Dr (773-924-3966).
This specialty bookstore is new to the neighborhood, having just relocated from State Street. With one of the city's best selections of African-American literature, it's easy to get lost in the stacks. The store's monthly author readings are worth marking your calendar. Past guests have included Colin Powell and Terry McMillan, author of Waiting to Exhale.

DuSable Museum of African American History, 740 E 56th Pl (773-947-0600; www.dusablemuseum.org).
Though it's not new to the area, the museum is still an essential stop on any tour of the South Side. It's one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the U.S. The DuSable's artifacts, historical documents and rotating exhibitions have drawn visitors to the neighborhood since 1971. (See Museums.)

Spoken Word Cafe, 4655 S King Dr (773-373-2233).
"It's a beautiful day at the spoken word cafe," say the baristas when they answer the phone at this cozy coffee/pastry shop with funky green-and-red walls. Settle in near the fireplace or sidle up to the stage for a little poetic justice. Open-mike readings are hosted Saturdays from 8pm to midnight.

BLU 47, 4655 S King Dr (773-536-6000).
Haul yourself up to the second floor to experience this upscale restaurant (the absent, vulgar "e" is a dead giveaway). Your efforts will be rewarded with a taste of Louisiana-influenced contemporary American fare served in an airy, loftlike space. Dine to the sound of live jazz Thursdays starting at about 8pm—there's no cover. And don't miss the Sunday champagne brunch from 10am to 4pm.

The Negro League Cafe, 301 E 43rd St (773-536-7000, www.thenegroleaguecafe.info).
Sitting amid baseball-themed decor, you can listen to more live jazz and poetry readings at this popular local hangout.

Art Park at the Elliott Donnelley Youth Center, 3947 S Michigan Ave (773-268-3815).
Take in this vivid depiction of the Great Migration, which stretches the length of the center's south wall as you step through the many sculptures dotting the yard. There are even pieces by renowned intuitive artist Mr. Imagination, a recipient of the Folk Art Society of America's Artist of the Year Award. Call ahead for a tour.

Additional entertainment venues are in the works. The Muntu Dance Theatre, which performs "authentic, progressive interpretations of African and African-American dance, music and folklore," has broken ground on a facility on the northeast corner of 47th Street and Greenwood Avenue. The space will feature a 400-seat theater and room for retail shops. The group is still raising money, but is shooting for a spring 2006 opening.

Much has been made of Second City's imminent arrival in the neighborhood, but further questions elicit a friendly, "We cannot comment at this time." A performing venue is possible, but not definite. Second City is, however, committed to opening a training facility in a leased space at 47th Street and King Drive. The Second City Bronzeville Training Center may offer some comedy training that's unique to the South Side facility.

Chicago Neighborhood Tours offers tours of Bronzeville three times a year. Call 312-742-1190 or visit www.chicagoneighborhoodtours.com for more info.