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Restaurant review | Doughnut Vault

The doughnuts Chicago has been—and will continue to be—waiting for.

By Julia Kramer

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    Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Jeremy Bolen325.re.eo.rv.doughnutValut1x476.jpg[title]147625131
  • [title]

    Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Jeremy Bolen325.re.eo.rv.doughnutValut2x476.jpg[title]147625152
  • Interior at Doughnut Valut

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault01x476.jpg138023933
  • Buttermilk old fashion doughnut at Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault02x476.jpg138024054
  • Chocolate doughnut at Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault03x476.jpg138024035
  • Chestnut doughnut at Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault04x476.jpg138023956
  • Vanilla doughnut at Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault05x476.jpg138024017
  • Ginger bread cake doughnut at Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault06x476.jpg138023978
  • Assorted doughnut at Doughnut Vault

    Photo: Martha Williams319.re.eo.jo.doughnutVault07x476.jpg138023999

Doughnut Vault

Photo: Jeremy Bolen
05/13/2011

“Excuse me, do you know what this line is for?”

“It’s for doughnuts,” I said, humiliated. I was waiting in a line 50 deep for a food most often preceded by the word Dunkin’.

“Are they that good?”

Before I could answer, the lady in front of me brushed aside her long blond hair and turned to face us with a look of exasperation: “They are.”

This was Doughnut Vault: the minuscule, chandeliered vestibule (capacity: approximately four) from which doughnuts appear Tuesday through Saturday at 8:30am, only to disappear just as ephemerally approximately 12 tweets and 90 minutes later. Currently, 750 are made each day, 900 on the weekend. There is no question the rounds of fried dough that emerge from this shoebox—the creation of the restaurateur Brendan Sodikoff (Gilt Bar, Maude’s Liquor Bar)—are as good as any doughnut being made in Chicago. The problem is they’re better.

“Stupid!” The Dance editor of Time Out Chicago is not one to raise his voice. “Stupidly good. The über–Krispy Kreme.” He held a chestnut-glazed doughnut, as fresh as one has ever come. I waited exactly 56 minutes for it. After the first 15 of those minutes, the couple behind me left for Sprinkles. The rest of us read novels. We played with dogs. We pretended we knew this was worth it.

I, for one, did not know. Not until I took my box of doughnuts to a bench and let my hands and face fall prey to the sticky, airy perfection that is a Doughnut Vault glazed doughnut. Do I wish the glazed doughnuts were less grotesquely large, and less than $3, and less demeaning to purchase? Yes. But I will ask no such things.

Download a podcast. Bring a long-lost friend. Get there at 8:30am. This is the doughnut we’ve been waiting for.

 

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Time Out Critic
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401 N Franklin St (twitter.com/doughnutvault). El: Brown, Purple (rush hrs) to Merchandise Mart. Bus: 65, 125, 156. Shop opens at 8:30am Tue–Fri and 9:30am Sat, and closes when doughnuts are sold out. Average doughnut: $3.

May 18, 2011
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How could you have omitted Calumet Bakery on the far southeast side (south deering), and also in Lansing. A Bakery in business since the 1940's, maybe even earlier ! Bob Collins of WGN radio would devour those doughnuts when local politician Sam Panayotovich would bring them to the studio. Excellent pastries , cakes, and "serbian" nut rolls.
By Anonymous (not verified) on 5/21/2011 at 3:11 pm
Donuts give me gas.
By Anonymous (not verified) on 5/22/2011 at 10:04 am
I remeber when Krispy Kremes first got to Chicago.. the mile-long lines on S. Harlem... Now you can get ;em in vending machines
By Egbert (not verified) on 5/22/2011 at 10:20 am
Hint: people with hive minds going where everyone else goes and being proud of their stupidity does not make the food better
By Jim Strathmeyer (not verified) on 5/22/2011 at 12:58 pm
Come out here to San Jose, CA and I'll introduce you to a better doughnut from a shop that's been around for years with a better pedigree. Way back when, they used to enter their doughnuts in numerous county and state fairs, with many 1st place ribbons to show for their efforts. Perfection is known as Stan's Donut Shop. Stop by and try their glazed donuts. 2628 Homestead Road Santa Clara, CA
By drew (not verified) on 5/22/2011 at 1:43 pm
Stan's in SoCal or Round Rock Donuts in TX, as good or better than any, and for Round Rock, about $0.80 per donut. No hype, just fantastic donuts, and you don't have to wait in line forever. (Okay, maybe 20 minutes on Sat/Sun mornings...)
By Kim (not verified) on 5/23/2011 at 11:32 am
Have an Opinion? Let's hear it