BIN 36 | Tasting notes

The recent menu revamp at BIN 36 is just the latest in a string of reinventions for the restaurant, but unlike its brief stint as a cheese-focused joint, this time the new menu actually feels, well, new. It’s certainly on trend: See the requisite lamb ribs, the fried bird-and-waffle, the lamb meatballs. Thankfully, no dish here is getting by merely on street cred. Those meatballs, tossed in romesco, are like Prozac in their ability to cause happiness. Rosemary nuts make best friends with white wine. Halibut is notable mostly for the sprightly kimchi dumplings alongside it; meanwhile, the stuffed mushrooms may be the richest in town, filled with escargot and capped with bone marrow. Desserts are surprisingly good, but you’ll probably never taste them: It may not be a “cheese restaurant” anymore, but it’s still wisest to end with the cheddar flight. 339 N Dearborn St (312-755-9463).