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'Tending to your hunger

Head to these bars for smaller, cheaper bites

The bar: Walking into the bar at the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago (120 E Delaware Place between Ernst Ct and Lake Shore Dr, 312-280-8800) is like walking onto the set of Masterpiece Theatre: plush chairs, antique wood furnishings and, in the colder months, a roaring fireplace.
The bites: A mix of classic pub grub, dressed up to the nines (this is, after all, the Four Seasons). The burgers are grilled sirloin, the Atlantic salmon is Applewood-smoked and the warm Camembert has a pecan crust.

The bar: Every inch of Japonais (600 W Chicago Ave at Larrabee St, 312-822-9600) is touched with their signature sleekness. Expect the downstairs bar and lounge to be just as packed with scenesters as the rest of the place.
The bites: Not in the mood for the stellar sushi and sashimi? Go for lobster spring rolls, smoked duck salad or the pan-seared lump crab cakes with soy mustard sauce.

The bar: The upstairs at Le Colonial (937 N Rush St between Walton and Oak Sts, 312-255-0088) is just like the downstairs: classy, dim and full of wicker and painted wood. But the hushed voices in the dining room are replaced with lively chatter from buzzed patrons who'll later head next door to Le Passage.
The bites: Try the artichoke and crabmeat salad, sesame beef over rice noodles, or the steamed Vietnamese ravioli with chicken and mushrooms.

The bar:Bar 1221 at Morton's the Steakhouse (65 E Wacker Pl between Garland Ct and Wabash Ave, 312-201-0410) aims to be a destination all on its own—a hipper, younger Morton's. But they couldn't resist decking the place out with classic red leather-and-velvet bar stools.
The bites: It's definitely basic bar food, but how can you complain when the petite filet sandwiches, minicheeseburgers and chicken goujonettes (otherwise known as chicken fingers) only cost $3 from 5–6:30pm every day?

The bar: Directly outside the main dining room at Moto (945 W Fulton Market between Sangamon and Morgan Sts, 312-491-0058) you'll find a lounge with a row of low tables and stools that maintain the restaurant's minimalist design and futuristic feel.
The bites: Chef Homaro Cantu doesn't limit his signature items to the main dining room. In addition to the pork belly pull-apart and cheese samplings, he lets you finish your night with one of his most talked-about items, the chilled cake with "hot" ice cream.

The bar: Not too many people are hip to the sleek, curvaceous bar at Naha (500 N Clark St at Illinois St, 312-321-6242). Apparently the secret about the great service and heavy pours by their bartenders isn't out yet.
The bites: You can't go wrong here: the golden calamari is served with an addictive saffron aioli, the lamb kebabs are juicy and flanked by a chunky Greek salad, and "our mother's own" feta turnovers are so good you'll try to finagle ways to join Nahabedian's clan.

The bar: Everybody twists through the sexy lounge and bar at NoMI (800 N Michigan Ave between Chicago Ave and Pearson St, 312-239-4030) on their way to the main dining room. The smart ones take a seat and linger there over wine and cheese.
The bites: They may not be the exact dishes that made him famous, but Sandro Gamba's bar menu of grilled Maine shrimp with a "Taste of Indian Spice," sirloin chili, and the NoMI club sandwich with turkey, prosciutto and egg are yet another reason to get in here before he cooks for the final time on July 15.

The bar: The charming bar in the lobby of Osteria Via Stato (620 N State St at Ontario St, 312-642-8450) has the same feeling as the rest of the place: rustic, bustling and kind of crowded.
The bites: Don't worry—the bar menu doesn't require you to commit to five courses like the main menu does, but with choices like polenta fries, Gorgonzola and bacon crostini and wild mushroom bruschetta, it's just as hearty.

The bar: The folks behind The Bar at the Peninsula Hotel (108 E Superior St between Michigan Ave and Rush St, fifth floor, 312-573-6766) describe their bar as having an "art nouveau flavor." We think the yellow carpeting, blue lounge chairs and red walls give it more of a Pee Wee's Playhouse vibe, but whatever.
The bites: It's bar food, Peninsula-style. It's not popcorn, it's truffled popcorn; it's not a turkey sandwich, it's a Thanksgiving sandwich, with cranberry mayo and apple-chestnut stuffing. On the other hand, the quesadilla is a quesadilla—only it's stuffed with lobster.

The bar: The long, ornately-carved wood bar at The Grill at Smith & Wollensky (318 N State St between Wacker Dr and Kinzie St, 312-670-9900) is full of regulars who know that waiting for a table is a waste of time.
The bites: This bar menu is full of classics like shrimp cocktails and chicken BLTs. But it's their hamburger (everybody knows that steakhouses make the best burgers) that'll make you pull up a stool.

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January 18, 2005
Previous: Belly up
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