NKOTB

Seas of change Seems like Shawn McClain is suffering from split personalities, but we're not complaining. He's following up his veggiecentric Green Zebra with Custom House, a carnivore's haven of meat and seafood. While McClain hesitates to call his highly awaited return a steakhouse, the menu sure looks that way: À la carte cuts of meat and fish join meat-based entrées like short-rib ravioli (pictured bottom) and classic steakhouse sides like mushrooms (top) and garlicky fingerling potatoes (middle). The former Prairie space has floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides, so don't worry: everyone will be able to see that your swank ass scored a table. 500 S Dearborn St at Congress Pkwy (312-523-0200).—David Tamarkin