Raising bull

It’s hard to take David Burke seriously. And at the same time, it’s impossible not to. The New York–based chef won the prestigious Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Diplome d’Honneur at age 26, yet he’s best known for making cheesecake lollipops and providing “smoking limos” for customers in the early days of New York’s smoking ban. Now he’s opened Primehouse David Burke in Chicago’s new James Hotel—and bought a $250,000 bull to father every steak he’ll serve there. No, seriously. We got him on the phone to find out more.
Time Out Chicago: Why did you want to open Primehouse in Chicago?
David Burke: We didn’t choose Chicago. The timing of the hotel chose us. I mean, I opened Smith & Wollensky here, and Park Avenue Café [now closed]. So, I know all the players in town. We’re in a very competitive area for steak.
TOC: Chicago has gotten a lot of attention for nouveau cuisine, too. Are you going to bring any of that to Primehouse?
DB: I think our attention to playfulness on the plate will be there, but not as extreme as I’ve done in the past. If a guy goes to a steakhouse and orders a shrimp cocktail, I want to make sure it looks and feels like a shrimp cocktail he’d get at a great steakhouse elsewhere. But if you’re going to order an “angry lobster” or a raw tuna dish, it’s going to look a little more on the fine-dining side.
TOC: So this bull you bought...
DB: I was just with him yesterday. His name is Prime. I’ve been using this meat for a couple of years at davidburke & donatella. I believe it to be the best meat in America. It’s a real problem getting prime beef year-round because there’s not enough prime for all the restaurants that claim they are selling prime.
TOC: So that was the main reason why you bought him?
DB: The main reason was the all-natural aspect of [Creekstone Farms in Kentucky]. These guys are very strong in the humane issues, and they’re antihormones. It’s natural beef, and they have an organic program, so I got a real good feel for what they’re about.
TOC: So Prime’s in Kentucky?
DB: Newcastle, Kentucky. It’s about 50 miles outside of Louisville.
TOC: How do you like being in Kentucky?
DB: I’ll tell you what: I like it out there. You go there in the summer with the rolling hills, and the farmland is just amazing. We saw some birthings yesterday, and these guys treat those animals on the farm like family. So it’s pretty refreshing, actually. I took some pictures with them.
TOC: You took pictures of you and Prime together?
DB: Yeah, patting him. He’s 2,500 pounds. He’s a big boy. He’s got his own little area, so no one messes with him. He’s treated like a king. He’s royalty over there.
TOC: Sounds like you’re relating to Prime a little bit.
DB: [Laughs] I guess you can say that. I kind of envy him—he’s got a pretty good job.