The Roquefort files

The cheese: Sweet Grass Dairy Georgia Gouda
What’s in it: Raw Jersey cow’s milk
How it’s made: Georgia Gouda is a farmstead cheese, meaning the cheese is made on the same farm where the cows are milked. Sweet Grass uses raw milk rather than pasteurized for more complex flavor, so by law, the ten-pound wheels must be aged for 60 days before going to market.
Smells/tastes like: This mild golden cheese has small holes and a buttery, semisoft texture. Its tangy, perfect-for-spring taste comes from the grass the cows graze on and the clean flavor of raw milk.
How to eat it: Support these happy cows and sustainable agriculture. Toast some Georgia pecans and enjoy a slab with an Oregon pinot gris to highlight its natural sweetness.
Where to get it:Provenance (2528 N California Ave, 773-384-0699) for $6.50 an 8-ounce half-wheel.—Lisa Futterman