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“Big in New York,” the Beijing-born Aide Zhang says when asked why she decided to open a Shanghai-style Chinese restaurant in Chicago about a year and a half ago. New Yorkers have long been hot for one Shanghai specialty, xiao long bao, or soup dumplings, a magical creation of hot soup encased in dough. It should’ve wowed Chicagoans, too, who marveled at chef Grant Achatz’s version, the “black truffle explosion,” that made him famous during his days at Trio.

At Mandarin Kitchen, the soup dumplings are traditional, filled with broth and pork or crab, but nonetheless delicious. It’s anybody’s guess why the addictive Chinese staple hasn’t brought in legions of fans. Some speculate the big red ramp outside the restaurant is messing with the space’s feng-shui and keeping the skeptics away. We say ditch the superstitions and get in to try dishes from China’s two most prominent cities: Shanghai and Beijing.When Shanghai specialties such as the soup dumplings didn’t draw crowds, Zhang and her chef, Qing Wang, added dishes from Beijing, including cumin-coated grilled lamb skewers, millet congee and the classic Chinese hot pot, which has been somewhat successful in luring diners seeking the wonders of the fonduelike, do-it-yourself meal.

Whether it’s the soup dumplings that tempt you—or the chewy homemade noodles in spicy sesame oil; the hot pots; or the fist-size meatballs braised in the house sauce of dark soy, sugar and vinegar—once you get in the door, you’ll wonder how you’ve gone without for so long.—Rob Gardner

Mandarin Kitchen2143 S Archer Ave at Cermak Rd (312-328-0228). El: Red to Chinatown. Bus: 18, 21, 62 (24 hrs). Lunch, dinner. Average main course: $10.