Oeno files

Makeup 100 percent carignane

Hails from Mendocino County, California

Profile A lean, quaffable body packing a punch of fruit (black cherries keep coming to mind), a touch of earth and a spicy finish

Tasting notes Known for being the main grape in countless cases of jug wines, carignane is largely discarded as a grape that produces wines that are either too innocuous or too harsh to drink. But as this bottle proves, carignane isn’t a bad grape—it’s just fussy. Winemaker Carl Sutton believes that given some time on the vine (the vines making these grapes are 90 years old), a good location (like the cool climate and rocky soil in Trimble Vineyard, where these grapes come from) and careful winemaking, carignane can make juicy wines you’ll want to keep on your dinner table all winter long. After tasting this bottle, you’ll likely agree.

Pairings There’s a stamp on this bottle proclaiming it bbq approved, but it goes just as well with chili, too. In fact, it’s one of those pairings where the spicy flavors in the chili—especially the vegetarian variety at Ann Sather (929 W Belmont Ave between Wilton and Sheffield Aves, 773-348-2378)—wake up the flavors in the wine, and vice versa.

Where to buy The 2004 Sutton Cellars carignane is available at Just Grapes (560 W Washington Blvd between Clinton and Jefferson Sts, 312-627-9463) for $16.49.—David Tamarkin

Thirsty for more? Listen to TOC’s weekly drinks podcast, Get Saucy, at www.timeout.com/chicago/getsaucy.