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If Jamaica Jerk weren’t on a Chicago street, you’d think those were tumbleweeds rolling by. A few years ago, though, this East Rogers Park area seemed to be on the upswing when first-time restaurateurs Paulette and Stanley Waite (pictured below) moved into their spacious digs to open a homey Jamaican restaurant. Their sole purpose was to provide authentic food for the large Jamaican community in Chicago that craves a taste of home. “Used to be that Howard Street was where people came regularly for Jamaican food, but now we’re more of an occasional destination place,” Stanley says.

His tranquil, ocean-blue dining room is one of only two or three taste-of-the-tropics survivors along a fairly desolate strip, but dependable dishes such as fiery, slow-cooked jerk chicken and curried goat keep a small stream of spice-lovers flowing through. Those with Caribbean cravings usually opt for Paulette’s “Island battered” (a blend of dried coconut, herbs and spices) perch and shrimp, or the saltfish—slightly funky, salty pieces of dried fish hiding tiny morsels of tomatoes, onions and peppers. Bring your own rum and create a cocktail with the house-made ruby-red sorrel (iced hibiscus tea).

In the Waites’ dreams, diners would come weekly to kick back with a ginger beer and a basket of fried johnnycakes. “We just want customers to feel like they’re in the islands, on a veranda overlooking the sea,” Stanley says. They’ve got the makings for good vibes—now all they need are the customers.—Misty Tosh

1631 W Howard St between Clark St and Marshfield Ave (773-764-1546). El: Red, Purple, Yellow to Howard. Bus: 22 (24 hrs), 97, 147, 151 (24 hrs), Pace 215, Pace 290. Lunch, dinner (closed Mon). Average main course: $10.

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