Something old, something new

Emmanuel Nony’s new restaurant Sepia epitomizes his vision of “classic” by melding yesterday and today. The upscale spot is housed in a former print shop, and the stemware, Knoll Stephens chairs, mirrors and lighting fixtures are vintage, but the main attraction—the food, scenesters, and don’t forget about the food—is as contemporary as it gets. Chef Kendal Duque spent the last few months in the kitchen of Berkeley’s famed Chez Panisse, learning how to finesse the seasons from the best of the best, chef Alice Waters. His menu at Sepia forms farmers’ markets’ finest into watermelon and shaved-fennel salad in goat milk–yogurt dressing; whole-wheat pasta ribbons tossed with black-trumpet mushrooms and squash blossoms; and slow-baked veal breast with mint noodles and cipollini onions. Just don’t count on Duque dubbing a dish classic; the menu will change as often as the weather. 123 N Jefferson St between Washington Blvd and Randolph St (312-441-1920).—Heather Shouse