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Amira's Trio
I went in for a Cuban sandwich but found myself in an Almodóvar movie. After taking my order, Vicky Amira (pictured), the earthily vibrant mother of three who named Amira’s Trio for her grown children, cranks up the music and starts dancing with a male visitor. A moment later, she laughingly shouts “Men are pigs!” for no apparent reason…other than to offer proof of the exuberant personality that fills her attractive Cicero Avenue storefront.
Amira was born in Honduras but learned Cuban and Puerto Rican cooking from the two women who raised her in Ohio. She opened her restaurant to pass those traditions to her own offspring—and to get them off fast food. “Our food can be fast and still be healthy,” she says. “It doesn’t have to be junk.”
Indeed, her food is far from “junk.” The commitment to freshness shows in housemade sides like chile de arbol salsa, garlicky mojo de ajo and pickled onions. She marinates pork overnight before slow-roasting it for juicy lechon, which turns up in both the Cuban sandwich and her “Cuban-Rican.” Served on either housebaked bread or fried plantains, the combo of roasted pork, steak, cheese and pickles sounds like a gut bomb but hits a delectable midpoint between often greasy jibaritos and sometimes dry Cubans.
“I have eight grandchildren. Now after school, they all come here,” she says, explaining why she started a restaurant. As she delivers food to a table of friends, it’s clear that there’s room for more in her family.
3047 N Cicero Ave between Nelson St and Barry Ave (773-205-6200). El: Blue to Montrose. Bus: 54, 76, 77 (24hrs). Lunch and dinner (closed Wed). Average main course: $7. BYOB.
