The hot seat

Inspiration As we went from a balmy 75 degrees to the mid-40s overnight, it was clear winter wouldn’t just creep up on us—it would come full force. Now it’s time for heartier dishes to keep everyone warm and cozy for the long, cold months ahead.

Ingredient I’ve recently fallen for goat. The teenage Kilgus brothers raise goats on their father’s farm (Pleasant Meadows) in Fairbury, Illinois, and we’ve been serving their amazing goat meat as a merguez-style sausage with chickpeas, Meyer-lemon yogurt and piquillo peppers. The flavor is akin to lamb but even more mild.

Kitchen gadget I recently received a Pacojet as a gift, so I just started making ice cream in flavors like fromage blanc, cinnamon and dark caramel.

Restaurant Since there’s a ban on answering “Avec,” I’ll say the Publican (837 W Fulton Market, 312-733-9555), where I just had dinner with my wife. Oysters, beer and sausages…it’s tough to beat.

Music to cook to Anything by DJ Shadow will set me right, but the kitchen hums a different tune daily, from Motown to public radio, depending on the mood.

2152 N Damen Ave between Shakespeare and Webster Aves (773-862-5555).