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Branch 27

By Heather Shouse

Branch 27

Photo: Jeremy Bolen

CHECK IT OUT Howard Natinsky knows bars—the three he co-owns (Five Star, Empire Liquors and Fat Cat) are always busy. And Cary Michael knows hospitality—the former Rockit Bar & Grill GM started his career at Lettuce Entertain You. So we’re going to give this duo the benefit of the doubt that they can turn the 27th Ward’s public library into a classy (but casual) restaurant with affordable (but enticing) food. To help in their endeavor, Branch 27, they’ve enlisted Bob Zrenner, former chef of the now-defunct Graze, whose menu offers a little something for everyone: bruschetta topped with grilled octopus, seared sea scallops with pumpkin ravioli in sage-hazelnut brown butter, a half-pound burger topped with crispy shallots. A few bites of cranberry apple–glazed baby back ribs with one of two dozen craft beers in the restaurant’s glass-ceilinged atrium, and the Branch’s past life will seem as distant as your Dewey decimal knowledge. 1371 W Chicago Ave at Noble St (312-850-2700).

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March 30, 2009
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