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Cibo Matto
IT’S COMEBACK STEIN Todd Stein’s explanation for his return to Chicago after a series of out-of-town stints (the last of which was at David Burke’s Sin City restaurant) is pretty straightforward: “Have you ever been to Las Vegas?” he replies. On a serious note, “My heart has always been in Chicago,” says Stein, who was mentored by Michael Kornick in the early days of mk, then left to launch three restaurants in Cleveland, returned to mk as executive chef from 2004 to 2006, then left town once again. Now, Stein helms two of theWit Hotel’s three restaurants: the scenester playhouse ROOF, which opened in May, and the modern Italian, dinner-only spot Cibo Matto, which debuts this week. At Cibo Matto, look for wood-roasted Maine scallops drizzled with black-truffle vinaigrette, sweetbreads aside fried artichokes and crisp-skinned Lake Superior whitefish atop a traditional peperonata. (Not to discount the Bill Johnson–designed dining room, complete with ceiling fresco by Chicago-born artist Todd Murphy.) And as for Stein’s future, “I’m not planning on going anywhere,” he promises. 201 N State St, 312-239-9500.
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