Three-way

What’s the difference between dulce de leche and caramel? The former is made by simmering (usually condensed) milk, as opposed to water, with sugar until it thickens. The creamy, milky, sweet stuff makes an appearance at three of the city’s newest storefronts, proving it’s not a trend: It’s just plain good. Case in point: the banana-and-dulce de leche empanadas at Macondo , a Colombian coffee shop. (2965 N Lincoln Ave, 773-698-6867)

Two early standouts at Rick Bayless’s new, casual restaurant, XOCO: the churros and the down-the-block lines. But no churro is complete without a cup of hot chocolate, made on-site from raw cocoa beans and available in Authentic (nothing but the fresh-ground chocolate and water), Aztec (boosted with chile and allspice), and other forms, any of which can be sweetened with dulce de leche made from goat’s milk. (449 N Clark St, 312-334-3688)

After two years at the Wicker Park farmers’ market, husband-and-wife pastry chefs Jennifer and Eric Estrella’s brick-and-mortar bakery bake. is slated to open Mon 28. Among the classic American treats (banana-nut bread, lemon-meringue tarts) on the menu is a malt cake with dulce-de-leche icing, which Jennifer has been making for eight years since adapting it from the pastry chef at the Four Seasons San Diego. (2246 W North Ave, 773-752-6770)

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