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Big Star

By Julia Kramer
Photo: Martha Williams

The most anticipated opening of the winter isn’t a fine-dining restaurant. It’s not even a restaurant. It’s a bar, located in the former Pontiac Café space, inspired by the Depression-era Bakersfield, California, scene. And if it’s getting a glut of attention, that’s because of who’s behind it: executive chef Paul Kahan (Blackbird, avec, the Publican) and a group of partners including Donnie Madia (the triumvirate and then some) and Terry Alexander (Danny’s Tavern, Sonotheque, etc). The crew tapped Justin Large, a former sous chef at avec, to turn out a streamlined menu of tacos (al pastor, fish, veggie) and they brought on Violet Hour’s Michael Rubel (pictured) as the spirits director. Rubel’s drinks program—American whiskey, small-batch tequila and a few cocktails like the Bakersfield Buck (Heaven Hill bourbon, lime and ginger beer)—is allegedly what the crew is talking about when they call the place “honky-tonk.” Call us crazy, but we think it’s probably not the drinks that make it honky-tonk, but rather the effect they have on people after they down them. 1531 N Damen Ave (773-235-4039).

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November 11, 2009
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