C-House

It’s been 16 months since Marcus Samuelsson opened this restaurant in the Affinia Hotel, and yet the celebrity chef has been spotted sporadically at best. But never mind that—three months ago, Nicole Pederson took over the kitchen, shifting from a sous chef position at Lula Cafe and bringing her comforting flavors and Midwestern purveyors with her. Of course, C-House still offers the raw bar that anchors Samuelsson’s seafood focus, but the food really shines when Pederson—a stickler for texture and balance—actually cooks things. Little hits of crunch come through silky clam chowder via panko-crisped clams, while chewy nubs of bacon add an ideal amount of salty smoke. Meanwhile, pickled crab apple, preserved lemon and fennel-apple puree offer perfect pucker to rich olive oil–poached sturgeon and sweet flecks of peekytoe crab (pictured). Pastry chef Toni Roberts is still ending meals on a high note with season-appropriate finales such as custardy, caramel-topped pumpkin bread pudding—the only difference is that now the savory side of the menu can keep up with her. 166 E Superior St (312-523-0923).

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