Three Aces

Three Aces has the look and feel of a punky college bar. But because Matt Troost (the chef last seen at Fianco) is rolling fresh pasta and frying pig ears in the kitchen, it’s hard not to pay attention to the food. Troost pairs slices of porchetta with punchy apple mostarda, tops housemade pappardelle with bolognese and fresh mint, and layers a fiery combination of chicken thighs, garlic, squash and thyme onto his pizzas. Here and there there’s a dish that doesn’t hit the mark, but overall the food is so good you can eat it—happily—in any environment at all.