Ai

Chef Toyoji Hemmi considers himself an artist—at Tsuki, he built a reputation for himself as an arbiter of “creative” sushi joints, and this one is no different. His hamachi carpaccio topped with ceviche, cilantro citrus obha sauce and wasabi filet mignon served with Japanese sweet potato are masterpieces. But like most artists, his stuff isn’t for everybody—particularly the perplexing maki rolls, one of which includes pine nuts in a spicy tuna roll to disappointing effect.