Antica Pizzeria

Simple is not a word that’s used casually at Antica: The dining room is so nondescript you’ll hardly remember being in it, and the only thing rare about the food is how honest it is. The Margherita may not pass muster with Neapolitan snobs—the crust is just millimeters too thick and a little too dry. But anybody who can get past those details will be rewarded with a crisp crust and a piquant sauce, praiseworthy not because it’s complicated, but specifically because it isn’t.