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To dine at Grant Achatz’s follow-up to Alinea is a rare—and rarefied—opportunity to submit oneself to a very specific vision of what great dining might look like. Right now, in the restaurant’s Tour of Thailand phase, that vision looks like a platter of street-food snacks (roasted bananas with fried shallots; bao stuffed with green curry); a porky and deeply savory take on tom yum soup; and beef cheeks that melt into a panang curry. The experience is definitely more lighthearted and lively than the restaurant’s opening gig, Paris 1906. But it is in no way less delicious.