Julia Kramer reviews chef Grant Achatz's Next restaurant in Chicago - Restaurants

Restaurant review | Next

Grant Achatz giveth. And Grant Achatz taketh away.

By Julia Kramer

324.re.eo.next

The Kitchen Table at Next
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Restaurant review | Next
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Hors d'oeuvres at Next
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Foie gras torchon and toasted brioche, part of the hors d'oeuvres course at Next
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Oeufs Benedictine, part of the hors d'oeuvres course at Next
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Pork rillettes, part of the hors d'oeuvres course at Next
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Mushroom-stuffed leek, part of the hors d'oeuvres course at Next
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Whole poached quail egg with liquid yolk, white anchovy and flecks of chervil and tarragon, part of the hors d'oeuvres course at Next
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Potage a la Tortue Claire (turtle consommé) at Next
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Filet de Sole Daumont at Next
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Supremes de Poussin at Next
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Caneton (duck) Rouennais a la Presse at Next
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Salad Irma at Next
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Bombe Ceylan at Next
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Mignardises at Next
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Mignardises at Next
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Salted carmel, part of the mignardises course at at Next
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Beet pâte de fruit, part of the mignardises course at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Host stand at Next
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View from the host stand into the dining room at Next
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View from the host stand into the dining room at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Kitchen table at Next
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Dining room at Next
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View from the kitchen into the Kitchen Table at Next
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Expediting station at Next
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Kitchen at Next
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Chefs Dave Beran (left) and Rene DeLeon (center) in the kitchen at Next
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Chefs Dave Beran (left) and Rene DeLeon (center) in the kitchen at Next
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Chef Dave Beran plating a dish in the kitchen at Next
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Chefs Dave Beran (left) and Rene DeLeon (center) in the kitchen at Next
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Dining room at Next
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Chefs Dave Beran (left) and Rene DeLeon (right) in the kitchen at Next
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Basement prep kitchen at Next
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The Kitchen Table at Next

Photo: Martha Williams

05/11/2011

Thirty-five days ago, I was seated nearly in the lap of TOC’s IT systems coordinator, whose computer for some reason loaded Next’s then-kinda-buggy website when mine would not. I bought a ticket, for four, under my name, to Next. Within days of that purchase I realized I had grossly underestimated how challenging it would be to trade my ticket for someone else’s—an attempt to conceal my identity. Days before my reservation, negotiations collapsed when the trading party decided that the sacrifice of taking my 6pm reservation was not worth the possibility (proffered with shame, but proffered nonetheless, by Yours Truly) that a sort of entry-level VIP treatment might be extended. And so, 14 days ago, I ate at Next as myself.

“Next is Alinea.” “Next is not Alinea.” This seems to me a pretty useless and static framework for analyzing two dynamic restaurants. And either way, the assumption is that Alinea is something perfect, a restaurant where each course is earth-shatteringly creative and tastes better than even the best Edzo’s burger. Alinea is an exceptional and memorable restaurant, but it’s not untouchable. Except, as far as I’m concerned, for the servers, whose unstuffiness is probably the only thing that could make the critical weight the food is burdened with bearable. In this sense, Next is Alinea: Done.

In every other sense, what “is” Next? Let’s begin with a story. As my meal was winding down, I spotted a friend across the room. I meandered over as his group was beginning their meal, and he asked what the highlights of mine had been. “I really liked the sole,” I said. And I did really like the sole, a course, like the others, designed to make the diner feel indulged: It’s a plate of sauce, really, punctuated by a bite of crayfish meat, butter-soft sole and a mushroom whose gracious spiciness stands out among the lushness of the meal.

“Did you have the lamb?” the friend asked; he’d read about it in Phil Vettel’s review. I knew, though few other readers of that review would, that this was a Kitchen Table dish, out of reach to those who either (a) didn’t elect to reserve the more expensive, six-person table or (b) are not VIP. Though I was dining under my own name, I hadn’t expected to receive it. I did.

“Yeah, it was all right,” I said. “I liked the duck better.”

Comments

Thank you for elucidating exactly why neither the Aviary or Next is really grabbing me. I've eaten at Alinea, but this idea of some sort of secret menu, not to mention this idea that you're a better person for being able to afford these no-doubt-amazing experiences, has completely turned me off the whole Achatz experience. Give me a good plate of pasta any day.

By Anonymous (not verified) on 5/11/2011 at 1:42 pm

You may prefer a bowl of pasta, but I am not sure that is what this article stated. I think she gave Next 5-stars (highest rating possible) and said she felt privileged (but personally guilty -- sounds like typical liberal angst) for getting to experience it. And finished by saying that Chicago was lucky to have it here and now.

By Anonymous (not verified) on 5/11/2011 at 2:42 pm

What's the point of reviewing a restaurant that practically no one will be able to experience? The "tickets" are impossible to get, unless, I suppose you're a whiz at Nintendo and/or whack-a-mole and the procedure of "releasing" tables at or about 10:00 a.m. each and every time is just plain stupid, especially for those of us who cannot camp out in front of the computer every day at that time. And while I'm sure that the food was very good to excellent, it's cold comfort to read how great the "tender, faintly grassy, perfectly cooked and seasoned slices of lamb" were to the 99.9% of us who'd loved to have experienced it but will never get a chance. Indeed we are lucky to have this new 5-star in Chicago - so sorry you'll never get to try it!

By Anonymous (not verified) on 5/11/2011 at 3:52 pm

This is a god awful restaurant review, that being said the petty comments from the readers is even worse. Reviewers write up restaurants all the time "people like you" will never get to eat at, it's the way it goes. Besides, "people like you" aren't the only ones this restaurant review is for. Some times the point of a review is to educate or share an experience with the Movers and shakers, politicians, athletes, and food nerds don't read time out Chicago? If you really wanted them you could probably get tickets. Their system maybe stupid to "people like you" but it's not like they are missing your business. Get over it and grow up. To the other guy, the menu isn't secret, you may not understand it or get it but it's hardly the Kryptos cipher. I think any given day of the week most people would prefer a bowl of pasta to Chef Achatz's food, but for a special occasion it's an experience. These complaints are petty and speak to all that is wrong with the food movement in America, everyone wants to the best, but if they can't have it whether through exclusivity or price, they tear it down

By Zach Simon (not verified) on 5/11/2011 at 7:10 pm

I am quite disappointed in this review. As a professional cook who has taken his own stabs at Escoffier, I try for that fleeting chance for same day tickets during my rare Wednesday or Thursday off work. These high caliber chefs taking on this challenge excites me more than perhaps any possible future menu. The fact that you do not engage with the food in any meaningful way, and thereby leaving all of us who cannot enjoy this incarnation of next as in the dark as before, is sad. This is a chance to share experience, and instead you glance over it and state 5 stars for an experience none of us will have, but many of us want to hear more about.

By Benjamin Greenberg (not verified) on 5/12/2011 at 5:07 pm

By Benjamin Greenberg (not verified) on 5/12/2011 at 5:08 pm

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