Yuzu Sushi and Robata Grill

The captain of this hipster-Japanese ship is Sushi Wabi alum Yut Vong, who delivers a familiar menu of the over-the-top maki Chicago crowds have become used to. But Vong’s strength doesn’t lie in cream cheese and spicy mayo: Instead, it’s found on the grill, which is used to add just enough char to meats such as beef short rib marinated in red-pepper paste, soy and sesame oil, or pork shoulder bathed in sake, honey, garlic and cilantro. Juicy chicken thighs carry a good dose of miso and scallion, and the fish tofu is, in a word, awesome, the silky texture undisturbed by a gentle grilling. Thai touches show up in standard noodle dishes and solid curry puffs (made by a server’s mother), but really? You're going to get Thai food at a robata?