Triple Crown Restaurant

After more than a decade tucked away on a Chinatown side street, this late-night institution moved to the main drag, with a second-story view of the area’s action. The dinner hour brings a nonstop flurry of cooks plucking lobsters, seabass and Dungeness crab from the seafood tanks, but after 10pm, it’s drunken dim-sum time. All the fried classics are suitable stomach lining, but we say meet in the middle with the late-night menu of small-plate portions of garlicky peapod greens, salt-and-pepper pork chops and tender quail smothered in peppery black bean sauce. Come back sober to enjoy it in a different light.