Roka Akor

The nigiri and sashimi at this high-end chain are hardly distinguishable from any other upper-tier raw joint in town, so skip the sushi and focus on small plates. Grilled chicken wings arrive with thin salt flakes and lime for doctoring; beautifully charred tomatoes and smoky eggplant get doused with a soy vinaigrette; blistered shishito peppers take a light dusting of bonito flakes and a splash of yuzu. Here for a steak? Unless you’re playing with Daddy’s (or sugar Daddy’s) money, skip the Wagyu and ask for the chef’s selection. Recently, it was sabatan, an insanely marbled cut taken from between the shoulder and under the ribs of Snake River Farms’ domestic Wagyu, and at $32 for a six-ounce portion, it was a steal (comparatively speaking).