Three Happiness Restaurant

The first thing to know before heading for this Chinatown gem is that it’s not the giant Three Happiness on the corner of Wentworth Avenue, and the difference is monumental. Ignore the far-from-spotless decor (or lack thereof) and skip the so-so appetizers in favor of black pepper beef with rice noodles (ordered “crispy”), stir-fried Dungeness crab in chili-seafood XO sauce, crispy salt-and-pepper shrimp and Cantonese-style crispy-skin chicken.