Tru

Executive Chef Anthony Martin—who stepped up as partner and executive chef here after Rick Tramonto’s departure—has set a new tone at the legendary Tru. Much of the whimsy of the Tramonto/Gand years is over—now, technique and execution are the mantras of the meal. That’s good for some dishes (soup has never been as satiny as Martin’s celeriac version) and underwhelming for others (cod is supremely flaky but otherwise forgettable). But in the rare moments when Martin’s undeniable abilities combine with a fleeting glimpse of playfulness, Tru 2011 feels just as special as Tru 2001.