Zapatista

Big, packed and loud, this is the type of place strong cocktails are made for, and its takes are stellar (particularly the bigote, a mojito-’rita-colada combo). The meal starts off as promising with mini tacos that pop with flavor (we particularly love the pork roasted with chili peppers). Entrées like chicken breast smothered in a sweet mole are solid, but the fajitas are much more of a show: They’re served in a hot, mortar-like molcajete where the peppers and scallions sizzle until you stuff them into housemade tortillas.