Morso

Matt Maroni went from no-name chef to local hero by launching Chicago's first food truck, gaztro-wagon, and leading the campaign to legalize street food. Now he's shifting his identity once more with a date-friendly brick-and-mortar heavy on seafood (perfectly seared scallops) and game (lean antelope served with spicy-crunchy fried chilies). Dinner begins with an amuse and ends with a take-home bag of madeleines, fresh from the oven. In between, there are more hits than misses, and unpretentious service and 60-plus wines available by the glass make up the difference.