The Smoke Daddy

Gluttony grabs hold in this kitschy kitchen, and it doesn’t let go until the band plays its last bluesy, rockabilly note (usually about 1am). So skip the brisket, ignore the chicken, and resist filling up on the addictive sweet-potato fries: You need to reserve your hunger for “The Rib Sampler.” It’s a huge plate of baby back ribs, spareribs and rib tips—a pile so big it might intimidate you. But don’t worry: The pink, smoky meat pulls off the bone easily and the pockets of fat melt on your tongue, so you’ll have no trouble cleaning your plate.