Chodang Tofu Village

In a dilapidated, mostly deserted suburban shopping mall, Chodang Tofu Village stands out as a clean, well-lit and very chartreuse dining zone. The chef sculpts soybean curd into many shapes: cubed in bibimbap; fried and tossed with sweet-sauced shellfish; and thinly sliced, wrapped with equally thin sliced beef around asparagus and served with a tart vinaigrette—an unexpectedly delicious creation. All dishes benefit from garden-crisp vegetables and a light touch of cooking oil. A vegetarian could dine here as comfortably as a carnivore, though the cold waitstaff seems not to care much for either.