Ginza Japanese Restaurant

Don’t be turned off by the Depression-era Tokyo Hotel that houses Ginza Japanese Restaurant, and don’t bother with inconsistent sushi. Instead, focus on kitchen dishes not found at trendier raw-fish venues. Sample, for instance, natto, fermented soybean packing a bittersweet punch, or yamakake, a bowl of liquefied mountain yam with raw tuna (good with natto). Plump, juicy oysters dusted with panko and deep-fried are excellent; grilled yellowfin neck is tender with fatty meat; and servers could not be sweeter.