Union Pizzeria

Sure, there’s pizza at this design-minded pizzeria, and it isn’t half bad: the bottom crust is impressively crispy, while the crust around the perimeter is puffy. But compared to the small plates that come before it (silky kale braised in white wine; herbaceous veal-pork-ricotta meatballs; calamari with a spicy white wine tomato sauce), and the desserts that come after (a polenta pound cake topped with sweet peaches; a rich chocolate panna cotta), the pizza will probably make the smallest impression. That’s not a bad thing—it’s just not a pizzeria thing.