graham elliot

The chef at graham elliot is no longer Graham Elliot but rather Andrew Brochu, a veteran of Kith and Kin and EL Ideas. It seems a risky move to hand an eponymous restaurant to somebody else, but at the onset of a recent meal here, that move appeared to pay off. A pea soup was the essence of spring; tender lobster was smartly paired with lobster sausage; a deconstructed carbonara was both elemental and enticing. But the second half of that meal disappointed: The two entrée courses featured unremarkable proteins (slimy redfish, squishy chicken), and desserts played it too safe. So maybe Brochu showed too many of his cards up front. In any case, he’s got the cards.