Mexique

Chef Carlos Gaytan is going for Mexican-French here, but most of his food comes off as upscale versions of the former. This isn’t a problem: You’ll be too busy eating to notice the lack of French flair in dishes like the perfect lamb chops, accompanied with a delicious barbacoa sope; beautiful ceviche; and excellent, beer-battered fish tacos. And when the fusion thing works, as it does with the cochinita rillettes and the luscious duck-confit tacos, it’s nothing short of magnifique.