Steve’s Deli

So maybe the carrots in the chicken soup here are undercooked, and maybe the broth itself is weak. Doesn’t matter. People will order the soup for the good matzo balls because a good matzo ball in Chicago is hard to find. And good sablefish? Good lox? Happily, these elusive goods are also found at Steve’s. No, the bagel you put the fish on isn’t great. And this isn’t a corned-beef place, either—the beef is leaner than the economy. But all this can be forgiven. Because what would a Jewish deli be without something to kvetch about?