The Publican

Diners come to this megaproject from Paul Kahan and crew for three things: to sample the massive list of brews while basking in the golden-hued, beer hall–like space, to taste impeccable charcuterie and oysters from chef Brian Huston’s dinner menu or to begin their Sundays with arguably the best brunch in town. We oscillate, but currently we’re in the latter camp, and once you taste the housemade ricotta and the thick slabs of “Publican bacon” (not the strips that come with the omelette but the top-shelf stuff), you will be, too.