Hearty

Even with a menu that changes throughout the year, you can always approach Hearty in two ways: You can go the route of extreme gluttony, starting with a blue-cheese tart followed by glorious fried chicken with creamed collard greens. Or you could go the deconstructed route via sophisticated beefaroni (no, that’s not a contradiction) or rabbit corn-dog. Whichever you choose, there may be hits and misses, but if you start with a cocktail (all of them are solid) and end with warm New England Indian pudding or a red velvet Twinkie, it’ll be easy to forgive any bumps in the road.