Ria

If the signature restaurant at the Elysian hotel had a motto, it might go something like this: If it’s not topped off with truffles or hidden beneath foie gras, what’s the point? It’s an opulent conceit, but it works, from a blissful oyster amuse littered with caviar through perfectly buttery lobster and langoustines. Take a few adventurous turns (braised cocks comb, marrow croutons and crispy pig’s tail), but stick with safe for dessert: A beautiful wheel of Comté cheese, sliced tableside, proves that sometimes real luxuries need not the least bit of adornment.