Tao Ran Ju

It’s easy to get distracted by the excellent xiao long bao (soup dumplings) here, but tables outfitted with individual heating elements are a reminder that hot pots are the star of the show. First, pick a broth (the sour and spicy is amazing). Next, order a good mix of vegetables, the razor-thin beef, the shell-on shrimp, housemade rice noodles and fish tofu. Finally, take a stroll to the condiment bar, where the sha cha—a faintly funky paste of pulverized dried shrimp, brill fish, soybean oil, garlic, shallots and chilies labeled as “satay sauce”—is the condiment not to miss.