Girl & the Goat

The way things are going, Stephanie Izard’s restaurant will be packed to the gills with diners until the end of time. There might be a few among the throngs who are here for a Top Chef sighting, but most are seeking the chef’s surprising flavors. Begin with one of the housemade breads served with inspired butters; home in on the vegetable dishes, which breathe new life into the likes of green beans and chickpeas; and don’t leave without taking at least one risk: roast goat neck? Foie gras for dessert? Izard is evolving the way these ingredients are seen. And along the way, she’s evolving contemporary Chicago cuisine.