Laguardia’s Cuban Bistro

If the Laguardia sibling restaurants were Hilton sisters, the Bucktown original would be Paris (always down to party, a bit tacky) and this newcomer Nicky (low-key, simpler all around). Those who prefer zebra print, live salsa and mojitos should probably stick to the original, but we found warm hospitality and, frankly, better food at this far-flung BYO. Plates are heaping, so you can skip starters and head right for the Ultimate Tour of Cuba, a solid sampler of boliche (eye of round roast), brothy ropa vieja (shredded beef), congri (black beans and rice), both ripe and green plantains and the house signature, butter-soft braised oxtails. Take a cue from the cops and save room for creamy, cool rice pudding; take a cue from the locals and bring plenty of red wine.