Le Fleur de Lis

All hail the po’ boy, which simultaneously affirms that New Orleans food is a national treasure and that breaded seafood in between two big pieces of bread is actually genius. Among shrimp and sausage options, the catfish—its cracker-crisp crust packed with salt and pepper—version at this Bronzeville restaurant (in the space formerly occupied by Negro League Café) is our favorite. Appetizers (like bland crab cakes) and desserts (such as wet-in-the-middle beignets) disappointed, so fill up on gumbo: What it lacks in roux, it makes up for with a simple, light broth, full of tender chicken and spiced sausage.