La Gondola

The massive menu and flat-screens here are more reminiscent of chain restaurants than Italian trattorias. (Items like fried ravioli only cement the joint's middle-American identity.) But here and there you can find hints of potential: tender grilled calamari dressed with olive oil and garlic; juicy chicken “Monte Carlo” finished (too generously, perhaps) with a perky white wine sauce. Still, more than any of these, it’s the pizza, with its buttery crust and copious toppings, that will make you return.