Silom 12

A basic lineup of Anglo-Thai favorites seems outdone by the slick digs at this Wicker Park BYOB. But dig a little deeper into the menu and you’ll see that the kitchen is at least trying to keep up with the room. For “Craw Crab,” the meaty end of crab claws is dipped in tempura then crisped into crustacean lollipops; meanwhile a veal shank is braised to its melting point in green curry, while fried pork shank delivers crunchy skin and surprisingly tender meat. Some dishes veer off course, but with a sweet staff, splashy decor and a few dishes of note, Silom just might be able to stand out among the crowd of neighborhood Thai joints.