Thai Village

Sometimes you want straight-up Thai. None of that secret-translated-menu stuff; you want the lad nar and crab-and-cream-cheese–filled wontons you first tried in college. If that’s the case, this spot’s for you. The crispy roll appetizer is oddly addictive: fried, cigar-shaped rolls of paper-thin rice wrapper holding in threads of vermicelli noodle, ground chicken and sprouts. The peanut-vinegar sauce shines in the fried tofu starter, as does the tangy, spicy lime dressing for both the papaya and the charbroiled sliced beef salad with big chunks of tomato. Pad thai is tasty enough, but a better bet is the spinach and pork in tamarind curry.