Allium

Anyone who’s skeptical of whether chef Kevin Hickey can pull off serving hot dogs and bacon-onion buns at the Four Seasons has obviously never had his food. The hot dog (entirely housemade) is nothing short of miraculous, and just like a lot of the food here—a tender Wagyu skirt steak, a rich puree of sweet potato topped with super-crunchy kale—those buns do nothing but charm. But for everything Hickey is doing that feels legitimately, soulfully Chicago, there is a restrained, milquetoast dish on the menu that could come from Any Fine-Dining Hotel Restaurant, USA. Combine that fact with the insultingly overpriced beverages, and you have a restaurant to be conflicted about.