Zapatista Mexican Grill

It’s not entirely clear what Zapatista is going for, but sometimes it only mildly resembles Mexican food. Here, there are burritos, and they come with french fries, a crime not even Chipotle dares commit. And cochinita pibil, a perfect dish when done correctly, is yanked in two directions, one upscale circa 1998 (the dry pork has been stuffed in a ring mold and plated on top of its sauce), the other tiredly downscale (the entire thing is, without explanation, covered in what are essentially Potato Stix). Ceviche can taste, remarkably, as if it were made without lime. And a chocolate tamale has the texture of a chocolate cake mixed with sand. In other words: Stick to the margaritas.