Hoyt’s

The question surrounding Hoyt's is that of all hotel restaurants: Is it going to serve throwaway meals to satiate the indiscriminate palates of traveling salesmen? Or will it attempt to be a destination, such as C-House or Mercat a la Planxa? Chef Gabriel Kolofon is clearly reaching for the latter here, with dishes like an appetizer of fresh cheese served in a skinny mason jar with toast and pickles, and glazed wild mushrooms. He also mixes in a few American hotel classics, like a burger served with phenomenal onion rings, and salmon served with its typical bedfellows, shaved fennel and mustard potatoes. So only sometimes is the food surprising. But it's almost always satisfying.